Organic wine: what it is and how it is produced

We have all heard of it, and maybe even drunk it, but do we really know what organic wine is and how it is produced? Why has it become so sought after and what are the differences between the mode of production and between the different classifications and certifications? Let's find out together in the Gorghi Tondi Official Guide to Organic Wines.

Conventional, organic, biodynamic production: an overview

As a good wine enthusiast, you will have witnessed or participated in a discussion about how wine is made. And you will certainly have heard of organic, biodynamic, 'natural' or even vegan wines. A great diversity, certainly, but also a lot of confusion for the consumer. And that is why we try to help you with this article, to try to unravel this complicated skein. But before analysing the most used (and abused) terms in the world of wine, let's clarify a crucial point, which is causing so much discussion. To speak of natural wine can be considered a contradiction, since wine does not exist in nature: it is the result of human knowledge, activity and work. Having clarified this concept, it is obvious that there are different ways of doing this, chosen by individual producers, which can be defined as conventional or not. Let us start with conventional wines.

Conventional

I conventional wines are those produced in compliance with standard Italian and European food laws, which specify how the vine is cultivated, the processes for producing wine in the cellar and the prohibitions and definitions for its production and marketing. This means, for example, that those who produce conventional wine:

• in the vineyard can use chemicals such as fertilisers, herbicides and pesticides to keep diseases and insects away;
• at the cellar can make use of additives and sometimes very invasive production techniques.

On the other hand, the unconventional wines are all those produced following different or alternative methodologies to the standard and which often follow specific rules drawn up by governmental or private entities, sometimes more restrictive, as in the case of organic or biodynamic production.

Organic

The term biological comes from the Greek bios, namely life.

L'organic farming aims to improve the natural fertility of the soil, favouring it with limited interventions; it promotes the biodiversity of local species, both plant and animal, and ecological balances. Organic farming prohibits the use of synthetic products such as:

• fungicides;
• fertilisers;
• herbicides;
• fertilisers;
• insecticides;
• genetically modified organisms (GMOs).

It therefore promotes the responsible use of energy and natural resources. It therefore tends to have a reduced environmental impact.

Organic production is the only one controlled according to European and national laws. It is therefore not based on self-declarations by the producer but on a uniform control system throughout the European Union. The company that wants to 'go organic' makes its intention known to the competent bodies and authorised control bodies.

The organic wine resulting from it is, consequently, a certified' product and legally defined by EU legislation. This, in the form of regulations, contains all the production guidelines and intervention restrictions during the wine production stages, from vineyard to bottle. These regulations are designed to provide a clear structure for the production of organic products throughout the EU. The intention is to meet consumer demand for reliable organic products, thus creating a fair market for producers, distributors and retailers.

A conversion period from conventional to organic farming of 3 yearsafter which it is possible to use the term 'organic wine' and place the EU logo on the label.

Biodynamics

There is still, from a regulatory point of view, no definition of biodynamic wine.

The approach biodynamic agriculture is a set of practices derived from the anthropophysical vision of Rudolf Steiner who, in the 1920s, gave a series of lectures on agriculture relating to soil fertility and the cosmic and spiritual forces that permeate our world. Rather than a method of agricultural production, it is rather a philosophy. In practice, biodynamics is similar to organic farming, from which it differs mainly in:

• the use of so-called 'esoteric' practices, including the use of certain preparations, the most famous of which is horn manure;
• attention to the phases of the moon;
• the position of the planets during vegetative development.

There is a private international federation of biodynamic producers call Demeter-Internationalwhich verifies and approves the wines by affixing its own trademark. It is the only ecological association, founded in 1997, to have created a network of individual certification bodies worldwide. It represents around 3,000 producers in as many as 35 countries. A comprehensive verification process ensures strict compliance with internal international production and processing standards, as well as organic standards applicable in the various countries, at every stage of the process, from agricultural production to product processing.

Using a specific specification, the association creates a de facto product certification. Certification, which for some stages of production, relies on the specifications and controls of the EU organic wine regulation. Biodynamic wines may have stricter restrictions than the latter in some cases.

Historical background on organic farming

Organic farming took its first steps in the early 20th century, initially without being mentioned explicitly, with the text "Scientific-spiritual impulses for the advancement of agriculture", in which the aforementioned Rudolf Steiner proposed a biodynamic cultivation method as early as 1924.

In 1930, the British botanist Sir Albert Howard developed the idea of agriculture based on natural rather than artificial processes, while in 1940, his compatriot and agronomist Walter James, Baron of Northbourne, first used the expression organic farmingwhich defines agriculture as an activity to be carried out in total harmony with the natural environment. It was in the United Kingdom that the first association for the defence of the environment, working in the agricultural sector, was founded in 1946: the Soil Association. Finally, in Versailles, in 1972 the Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (Ifoam), which brings together the leading organic exponents of the timewhile in the United States theUS Environmental Protection Agency.  

It was not until the end of the 1980s that the first organic regulations saw the light of day. In particular, in 1988, more than 60 countries voted against the adoption of GMO seeds at the 12th Ifoam Scientific Conference. Instead, in 1991, rules for cultivation were established for the first time, summarised in Council Regulation (EEC) No 2092/91 of 24 June 1991.

Organic farming and European and national legislation

For those of you who love regulations and would like to educate yourselves on European and Italian organic laws, here are the references to the current rules on organic production, including those relating to wine:

• Regulation (EU) 2018/848 of the European Parliament and of the Council, of 30 May 2018, which came into force in 2021, relating to organic production and to thelabelling of organic productsreplacing Council Regulation (EC) No 834/2007;
• Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) 2020/464 of 26 March 2020 specifying certain detailed rules for the application of Regulation (EU) 2018/848 regarding the retroactive recognition of conversion periods and the production of organic products;
• Unified text on organic agricultural production of 17 June 2021 approving Bill No. 988 'Provisions for the protection, development and competitiveness of organic agricultural, agri-food and aquaculture production'.

From organic grapes to organic wine

In Italy, the use of the definitionorganic wine' is fairly recent and dates back at 2012after years of substantial legislative vacuum.

It was in 1991 when the European regulation for organic food production was introduced, regulating the production of organic vegetablesand therefore also of grapes. Clearly, one cannot yet speak of a finished product ".organic wine', let alone declare it on the label, but of simple "wine from organic grapes".

In 2007 and 2008, new EU regulations on organic production were published. However, there are no specific details for wine and its production techniques. Wine can be labelled and accompanied by the words 'wine made from organic grapes', without displaying the European Union's organic logo, at the time of form circular with the ear, surrounded by the stars.

In 2012, organic wine finally gained recognition with the Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) No 203/2012of 8 March. Here, the rules for the production of organic wines are laid down, by also emphasising winemaking operations, and not only the agricultural management of vineyards. Only from now on wine can be labelled as 'organic wine' and use the new EU organic logothe so-called euro-leaf o euro-leafthe green rectangular mark with a leaf made of stars, which we are used to finding on wine bottles and organic products in general.

Since the 2012 vintage, all wines produced according to this production method are consequently classified as BIO.

Production, restrictions, labelling, certifying bodies

Production

Organic wine must be produced from grapes from the aforementioned certified organic farming, an agricultural production system defined and regulated at European level that bans the use of synthetic chemicals for soil fertilisation, pest control, animal pests and plant diseases. It also bans the use of GMOs and resorts to traditional preventive practices. For example, the selection of disease-resistant varieties and the use of specific cultivation techniques and practices, including:

• la rotazione delle colture, che evita di coltivare per più stagioni consecutive sullo stesso terreno la stessa pianta. Questa tecnica impedisce che parassiti ed erbe infestanti si adattino e proliferino in un ambiente favorevole;
• la piantumazione di alberi e siepi che ripristina il paesaggio, offre rifugio ai naturali predatori dei parassiti e funge da barriera contro l’inquinamento esterno;
• la coltivazione contemporanea di piante diverse, l’una sgradita ai parassiti dell’altra;
• l’impiego di fertilizzanti naturali, come il letame o altre sostanze organiche compostate (ad esempio gli sfalci) e il sovescio. Questo consiste nell’interrare piante seminate ad hocsuch as legumes, wild grasses or mustard, to enrich the soil with substances useful for fertility;
• la difesa delle colture che viene attuata, se necessario, con sostanze naturali di origine vegetale o minerale. Sostanze autorizzate nello stesso regolamento europeo, impiegate per proteggere le coltivazioni dagli attacchi dei parassiti e dalle malattie. Tra queste il rame e lo zolfo sono le più comuni, sebbene in dosi limitate. Vengono, inoltre, utilizzati insetti utili e antagonisti che predano i parassiti.

In winemaking, few additives and adjuvants are permitted, all of certified organic origin and in limited quantities. All stages of production, from vineyard to bottle, must meet the requirement of traceability.

Restrictions

Organic wine is therefore produced 'by subtraction', simplifying and reducing by about half the use of substances and adjuvants, both in the vineyard and in the cellar, that are normally allowed in conventional wine production. Among the main restrictions and limitations, organic wine production prohibits:

• GMOs, or Genetically Modified Organisms;
• synthetic chemicals;
• some invasive cellar practices;
• everything that is not expressly provided for in the EU regulation.

The other substantial point of organic production is the reducing the amount of sulphites compared to conventionally produced wines. In organic wine, the sulphur dioxide limits must be:

• 100 mg/l for dry red wines (compared to the standard 150 mg/l);
• 150 mg/l for dry white or rosé wines (against 200 mg/l for the standard).

Labelling

Organic wine, in addition to having to comply with the labelling rules valid for all wines, must also:

• contain the term 'organic wine' in the labelling;
• include the EU euro-leaf organic logo;
• indicate the code number of the competent certification body.

Certifying bodies

The role of certifying bodies or inspection bodies is to carry out inspections at member companies at least once a year. The assessment consists of an on-site visit by a representative or auditors the body that monitors compliance with regulations and procedures, keeps records and, if necessary, takes samples for analysis if a violation is suspected. These certifying bodies, authorised in Italy by the Ministry of Agriculture (MiPAAF)must be specifically recognised by ACCREDIAthe only accreditation body in charge at national level. The bodies themselves must respect the so-called 'third party' principle, and must not have any other commercial or consultancy relationship with certified companies.

Obtaining organic certification and the consequent possibility of displaying the green 'little leaf' logo on the label is therefore no simple matter. This is why we undergo continuous, very strict controls by competent third-party bodies that certify compliance with legal obligations. The certifying body of Tenuta Gorghi Tondi is CCPB,. Like other third-party bodies, CCPB certifies organic and environmentally sustainable food and non-food products in Europe and the rest of the world, being an equivalent certification body. 

Ihe EU organic logo (the EU logo)

The EU organic logo is a consistent symbol for EU organic products, as it allows:

• consumers to recognise organic products;
• producers to market them;
• the competent authorities to carry out the relevant checks.

The EU organic logo can only be used on products certified as such by an authorised inspection body or agency. This confirms to the consumer that they have met very strict production, processing, transport and storage conditions. The logo only applies to products biological to 95% and abide by equally strict rules for the remaining 5%.

The euro-leaf logo is mandatory for most organic food products (e.g. it does not apply to products derived from hunting or fishing) and follows specific rules in labelling. In particular, the logo must:

• have minimum dimensions Measuring 13.5 mm x 9 mm, except for very small packages;
• use standard colours green and whitewith the exception of monochrome printing.

In addition to the logo, you will find on the label the identification code of the control body and the place where the raw materials underlying the product were grown.

To learn more about the uses of the organic logo, click here.

Organic in the world, the most sensitive markets

The world is becoming more and more organic and the trend is steadily increasing. Organic today counts 106 billion turnover, 3.1 million producers and 72.3 million hectares representing 1.5% of the world's cultivated land (data updated to 2019 and published in the latest edition of the statistical yearbook The World of Organic Agriculture of FIBL, the Swiss Research Institute for Organic Agriculture, and Ifoam). This positive trend also applies to consumers, who are becoming increasingly aware of sustainability by buying organic food and wine.

A further factor capable of boosting organic numbers are the policy initiatives contained in the so-called Green Deal. Europe, in fact, has set itself the goal of increase the number of organically managed agricultural land of at least 25% by 2030, and aims to be the first climate neutral continent by 2050.

The most important organic productions

Worldwide, the most important organic crops are represented by: 

• olive trees (0.9 million hectares);
• coffee (0.7 million hectares); 
• walnuts (0.6 million hectares); 
• screw (0.5 million hectares); 
• cocoa (0.4 million hectares).

The number of organic producers in the world increased by 13% from 2018 to 2019. The majority is concentrated in Asia (51%). Africa (27%), Europe (14%) and Latin America (7%) follow in the ranking. India is the first country in terms of number of producers.

The largest cultivated area in organic production is the prerogative of Australia with 35.7 million hectares, followed by Europe (16.5 million) and Latin America (8.3 million).

I main markets by sales are the United States (42% of the global market with 44.7 € billion) followed by theEuropean Union (39% with 41.4 € billion) and the China (8% with 8.5 € billion).
The record for the highest per capita consumptionwith 344 €Denmark has it, followed by Switzerland and Austria.

In Europe, theItaly is the first country in terms of the number of organic producers, with over 80,000 companies. It ranks third in terms of cultivated area, with 2 million hectaresbehind Spain (2.4 million) and France (2.2 million). By domestic market, our country also ranks third with € 3.6 billion, behind Germany (€ 12 billion) and France (€ 11.3 billion).

Sicily: the most organic region in Italy

Sicily is the most organic region in Italy. This is also confirmed by 'Bio in figures 2020"the report prepared by SINAB (National Information System on Organic Agriculture) for the Mipaaf related to the year 2019.

The 51% from cultivated area in organic agriculture in Italy is shared by four regions, three of them in the South: Sicily (370,622 hectares), Apulia (266,274 hectares), Calabria (208,292 hectares) and Emilia-Romagna (166,525 hectares).

Also for number of operators, our island retains the primacy of organic production, with 10.596 companies out of more than 80,000 nationwide.

Organic wine in Sicily

Speaking strictly of organic wine, the dynamics do not change. The organic vineyard is the second largest crop on the island, after cereals, with no less than 30,084 hectares, and is the largest nationwide (34%), with the province of Trapani leading the way.

To this, it should be added that the 75%* from Sicilian vineyards is cultivated by selecting and reducing the use of pesticides as much as possible, thanks also to the geo-physical characteristics of the largest island in the Mediterranean such as:

• the excellent ventilation of vineyards located on hills or mountains;
• the beneficial effect of breezes and saltiness on vineyards facing or near the sea;
• the important solar radiation;
• the low rainfall, concentrated in autumn and winter, far from the flowering, development and ripening phases of the grapes;
• the absence of violent weather phenomena, such as spring hail.

With exceptions, these optimal conditions ward off many of the critical issues to which vineyards are prone, such as mould, pests or the development of diseases due to lack of sunshine or excessively cold temperatures.

*data from Sicily DOC Consortium

Gorghi Tondi in organic since 2016

Tenuta Gorghi Tondi is named after the nature conservation area of the same name, Lago Preola and Gorghi Tondi. This makes it a scenic destination of great interest, a place where the environment has been protected for decades and coexisting in harmony with viticulture.

In terms of organic certificationThis was a great advantage. The particular location of some of the company's vineyards, which fall within the Lake Preola and Gorghi Tondi Integral Regional Reservehas made it possible to classify some of the wines produced on the farm as organic as early as 2014. 

These are, of course, the vineyards located within the reserve, which is also an oasis WWF since 1998, in which Tenuta Gorghi Tondi boasts 35 hectares (out of a total of 350). These have benefited from the so-called shortening of the conversion period of the vineyard, which began for all plots in 2013. The 'early' certification was possible because the protected area has been subject to very strict environmental constraints since the early 1990s, thus making it possible to verify its suitability well in advance of the three years required by the normal organic conversion process.

In 2016, the remaining vineyards of Tenuta Gorghi Tondi completed the conversion process and received organic certification. This means that from the harvest of the same year, the wines produced on the family estate can bear the Euroleaf and the words 'organic wine' on the label, as per European regulations.

Discover all our organic wines on our online shop.